Hooker, Sir Joseph Dalton
JHC83
Momay Samdong, Lachoong [Lachung] River, Sikkim, Himalayas, Tibet frontier, India
JDH/1/10 f.210&248
Hooker, Sir William Jackson
The Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
23-9-1849
© Descendants of Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker
Indian Letters 1847-1851
The Trustees of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
English
Original MS
8 page letter over 2 folios
 

JDH tells WJH of his plan for the coming year. He is done with Sikkim & Bhotan [Bhutan], or the 'Dhurmah country', is shut to Europeans; it's Rajah is worse than Sikkim’s. The Mishmis are so unhealthy that Jenkins advises against going there. The northwest is being explored by Captain Strachey – only Nepal remains. JDH describes the best route: straight from Darjeeling to Cattmandu [Kathamandu] via Dunkotah & then to Dawalgeri & Kumaron. He describes the difficulties he will face. The Rajah’s leave could not be refused to the Governor General. The expense would be £600 of which he has £300 from Woods & Forests. He has written to Lord Dalhousie on the matter & hopes Thomson will join him. He has also written to Sir Henry Elliot of his intentions. If Thomson does not join him, he will struggle with navigating by astronomy & languages. He describes orientating himself in Sikkim using an Azimuth Compass, but could not do so in Nepal. The languages spoken, besides Hindustani, are Purbuttyah – Ghoorka [Ghurka] colloquial - & Bhote [Tibetan]. He requests a telescope & one of Newman's short barometers. Should there be any obstacles to his plans for going to Nepal, he will take the Khossya Hills instead. JDH discusses his recent explorations which have included two glaciers, & his collections, including a Cyananthus. He wants WJH to grow the great rhubarb 'Tchuka', which he describes, he thinks it is figured in Royle’s Himalaya Flora. A new Rhododendron & Tsalla are common there at 18,000 ft. He adds that it snows everyday.

Transcript

*2 a wheel, it is the most wonderful -- looking plant in the Himalaya & excites my unbounded admiration. You see the individual plant miles off -- The inflorescence is wholly hid under the beautiful papery glossy & semitransparent yellow bracts; the upper of which are tinged round the edges with pink; the average height is a yard & its Pagoda form is singularly suggestive of these Tartars, people whose country it inhabits[.] I sent lots of seed last year, both in letter & in parcel, & now enclose more. I think a wretched figure of a bract is in Royle's Himalayan Flora. A little Rhododendron, new to me, is common here at 18,000ft, along with the "Tsalla" (R. setosum.).
We have wretched weather at present, -- snow, both day & night, at intervals, & it is miserably cold. *3
Best love to all. Ever yr affect[ionate] Son | Jos D Hooker [signature]

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Momay Samdong, Sikkim Himal. Thibet frontier
Sept 23/ [18]49
My dear Father
As you are no doubt anxious to know how I propose employing this coming my last year in India, I hasten to give you the earliest information I can on the subject, subject as it is to all uncertainty. You desire that it should be in the Himal. & I have set about conquering the great difficulties that lie in the way --
Sikkim I have done with, nothing should induce me to tilt with the Rajah & suffer what I have albeit[sic] the conqueror & I further think I have explored it pretty well, too well to render it worth while to devote another expensive season to it.
Bhottan [Bhutan] or the Dhurmah country is virtually shut to Europeans, its Rajah a thousand times worse than he of Sikkim & his people thorough scoundrels. -- The Mishmis are so unhealthy that Jenkins advises me not to try them -- The N.W. is or is being completely explored -- Nepal

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alone remains! Now the proper & profitable Nepal route is, to go to Cathmandu [Kathmandu] straight through the heart of the country, from Dorjiling [Darjeeling] in January via Ilam & Dunkotah to visit the Passes East of Cathmandu & West of Wallanchoon (Gossain Than &c) in spring; & in autumn to travel to those west of the capital & to Dawalgiri & so on to Kemaon. The difficulties at present in the way are, 1) the Rajah's leave -- 2) the expense, 3) the great labor for I must in such a wholly unexplored route pay much attention to Astronomy 3)[sic] some little hardship. As to the Rajah's leave I think considering how graciously that was granted last year, on Campbell's request, an extension could not be refused to the Governor General. The expense would probably be £600 for the whole years travelling, of which I have £300 from W & F. [Woods & Forests] This & the labor would both vanish if Thomson

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would bear me company, & as to the hardship so glorious a journey unrivalled as I should thereafter stand in the Annals of Indian travelling, is not worth thinking off[sic] .
I see no other way of fulfilling your wishes & as it is no use puzzling at difficulties I wrote off to Lord D[alhousie]. the moment my mind was made up, asking if he would proffer the requisite application to the Rajah & if so would he object to include Thomson's name in the request should T[homson]. be inclined to join me. I of course propose both Thomsons & my doing it out of our own resources, knowing that Lord D[alhousie]. would not give 6d. for the results be they ever so good. I have at the same time caused Sir H. Elliott to be written to, & acquainted with my intentions & also advised to hold out some encouragement to Thomson to undertake it with me. Elliott is a great patron of Scientific exploration & has been pleased

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to express a high opinion of my enterprize, so that I have hopes of carrying through the scheme & turning out a great man & then I shall bear up for old England with some satisfaction.
So matters stand -- I have had no opportunity of consulting Thomson but have in no way compromised or trammelled him -- He & his Father are quite rich enough, & I can hardly doubt Tom's desire to accompany me -- If he will do so & stand £200; whilst I (ie my 300 & £100 or say 200 from you) stand 400 the thing may be well done. the Great expense being coolies to carry our dried plants & their food. Should Thomson decline I must do it myself though labouring under two grievous disadvantages, first the aforesaid astronomy, & second my ignorance of incapacity for acquiring tongues. The astronomy is unfortunately essential for it is impossible to guess your direction. *1

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or distance in this country, without known bearings, or the constant use of astronomical observations; Here, in Sikkim, you know, the great peaks are all laid down by triangulation from Dorjiling, & I always get my position by them with an azimuth compass. This process costs no time or trouble, & with the pocket sextant & horizon I can set my watch to a second, with half an hour's labor. In Nepal, the peaks are both alike unknown by name or position; & the country, being as mountainous & torturous[?] as this, in 4 days I should not know where I was by perhaps 20 miles; for you cannot guess distances or directions where when wondering over range after range of thickly wooded mts & winding through the most torturous perplexed deep valleys -- As to languages, I have difficulty enough here; & there one should know, (besides Hindustani) Purbuttyah (the Ghorka [Ghurka] colloquial) & Bhote, a dialect of Chinese. -- now my Hindustani is atrociously bad, of Purbuttyah I don't know a word; & I have only but a smattering

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of Bhote (or Thibetan) -- Thomson is, of course, perfect in Hindustani & versed in Bhote, too; whilst with his remarkable talents as a linguist Purbuttyah would come to him fast enough. It is true that this ignorance of languages does not stand much in the way of Botany; but in every other aspect it is a fearful draw--back -- Still the prize of success is too great to be lightly lost; & I am bent on undertaking the task, with all its trifles of difficulties, which will vanish on approach, as heaps of others have die before. I want nothing but your blessing, the telescope, & one of Newman's short Barometers; about which I wrote before. Should any unforeseen obstacle arise then I shall take the Khassya hills instead; but I anticipate nothing but success.
I am still up at about 16,000ft, & exploring right & left: my collection from these lofty regions is I think

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now complete have repeatedly ascended to 18,000 ft, & the other day to 20,000; if the boiling point tells true; but I have no faith in Boiling points, though my instruments & appliances are of the very best -- There is nothing like the Barometer for portability & convenience. I never can get a fire up for B[oiling]]. Point, under an hour, & with head aching & snow falling, the affair is a perfect nuisance. (I have found two splendid glaciers here, one a true mer de glace, of stupendous area. I am collecting seeds as fast as I can, & I think you will be satisfied this year -- It is, however, very difficult to get plenty of a kind of these alpines, which are all small. I hope Cyananthus will grow; it is a lovely plant & its exquisitely delicate petals bear a cold of 29˚ in the night, & a heat in the day which raises the black bulb therm[omete]r. to130˚; but I am more anxious you should grow the great Rhubarb (Tchuka) than any other Himalayan plant. Its white pyramid of reflected bladdery bracts ia 4 feet high, & the huge green leaves spread out all on the ground, like

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*2 a wheel, it is the most wonderful -- looking plant in the Himalaya & excites my unbounded admiration. You see the individual plant miles off -- The inflorescence is wholly hid under the beautiful papery glossy & semitransparent yellow bracts; the upper of which are tinged round the edges with pink; the average height is a yard & its Pagoda form is singularly suggestive of these Tartars, people whose country it inhabits[.] I sent lots of seed last year, both in letter & in parcel, & now enclose more. I think a wretched figure of a bract is in Royle's Himalayan Flora. A little Rhododendron, new to me, is common here at 18,000ft, along with the "Tsalla" (R. setosum.).
We have wretched weather at present, -- snow, both day & night, at intervals, & it is miserably cold. *3
Best love to all. Ever yr affect[ionate] Son | Jos D Hooker [signature]

ENDNOTES


1. A note written in another hand queries: 'End?'. The conclusion of the letter has been stored out of order within the archive volume and is numbered folio 248.
2. A pencil sketch illustrating the described rhubarb covers a large part of this page with the text written around it.
3. The text from here is written vertically up the margin of the page.

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