St Louis. July 17/[18]77. Dearest Hyacinth*1 Yours of first July, just received as I was about to write to you, was a most unexpected treat! thank you dearest for writing so soon. I do so long to hear from you and see you, and did not expect the former till I had arrived at Pueblo the day after tomorrow (if then). We arrived here yesterday after a very tiring railway journey though of only 14 hours from Cincinnati, whence I wrote last, to you, to Mr Dyer*2 and Smith*3. Now I am writing only to you. We have had really cool weather, but the dust and dirt of the railway cars in these bituminous coal districts is horrible and the sleeping in the Pulman cars is simply infernal, -- you could not have stood it, yet as there are no good and high enough backs for support in the seats of the carriages, you are driven to them. Nothing can exceed the cleanliness and the goodness of the carriages' beds and bedding, but you are enclosed by thick curtains and have no air, and the broad, long, high carriages upon very badly metalled roads, swing, jerk, jump, tip and roll, so that it is often impossible to stand, and the noise is awful. Sitting down one does not feel it much, but the lying down, high above the centre of gravity of the car, is simply being tossed the night long in a blanket! Had you been with us, we must have taken short stages and slept the nights at Hotels.

These latter are admirable, but, my dear, you pay 16/- to 20/a day for everything, whether you eat or no! exclusive of wine or beer, and these are tremendously high. I cannot tell you how constantly you are in my thoughts, envying Gray*4 and Strachey*5 having their wives, wishing I could show you this and that, and then again glad that you have escaped some discomfort, -- but in the Hotels I miss you most, and dream of you all night, -- incongruous dreams, happily never bad ones, though so often unsatisfactory, or rather unintelligible! I am very very busy making notes on the vegetation. Our party has increased to 10! the Grays and Stracheys, 4, Dr Lambourne -- very interesting – Prof[essor] Leidy*6, the very great Zoologist whom Huxley swears by, who wants to explain ore the minute animals, Diatoms, Rhizopods &c., of the Colorado waters, his wife, a decent body, and adopted child of 8 or so, a pallid, over-fed girl, -- Mr Hayden, head of the Geog[logical] Survey, and a Capt[ain] Stevenson, his chief assistant, who appears to be a very able and agreeable man. We shall leave the ladies some where I suppose. The more I see of Mrs Strachey the more I think you would have liked her; she can't help being clever and odd, but she is so considerate and truly kind, candid, earnest and dependable. Mrs Gray is most sweet, has a perpetual smile and is very lovable; she is so anxious to know you. You cannot think how pleased she was with the little photograph in my locket. She is well on to 55 or 60, I suppose. Gray is 67, as sharp as a needle, pleasant, laughing and full of animal spirits and information.

Why should not Amy come home for the holidays? You know dear that I have often wished, (not only suggested it). Let them both come at Xmas. I am anxious to hear of Willy, Charlie and Brian's several results*7. Willy writes to me calling you Madre in his letter, and speaking so nicely -- he is a good fellow. I am up to the eyes in trees, flowers and shrubs. My next letter must be for all to see, this is for your own self, my beloved and darling wife, from your devoted husband, J.D.Hooker.
Kiss Reggie*8 for me, and give much love to your father and mother. How is Powell? Remember me especially to Pendock neighbours who know me, especially our old friends of Carmas. I cannot remember their name ! and the Robertses, and all at Hereford. Therm[ometer] only 83 but was 98 two days ago! happily we had not arrived.*9