DARJEELING, March 26th 1849. My dearest Mother, Since writing to my father, two mails have arrived in quick succession, the last brings me at this moment your letter dated the 26th Jan[uary]., in which you mention poor Gurney's*1 decease. I am well aware you would all be much afflicted by this event; for myself, I miss him, poor fellow, exceedingly. What am I to do with a little book addressed to Mrs. Gurney Turner by my father? It came in a parcel to me, but did not arrive till after she had sailed for England. Lest I forget it, - be so kind as to ask my father about my money, which I think is overdue; for want of it I must borrow. Your accounts of Elizabeth*2 are delightful, and confirmed by those which my father and Frances*3 give. I have no doubt that Mr. Webber's treatment, which seems most judicious, will restore her to better health than she has known for many years. I will thank you to give my affectionate love to my dear Grandmother, and I beg you will accept my continued thanks for all your kindness to Frances, who enjoyed herself at Kew, and appears to have highly valued the ticket you gave

her for the Queen's opening of Parliament. Just before your letter came, I heard, and with great pleasure, of E. Rigby's*4 engagement to Mr. Eastlake*5. He has often been highly spoken of to me, particularly for his kindness to his brother artists, and for his gentlemanly character. His paintings, so far as I am acquainted with them, I admire extremely. I have a sincere regard for Eliz. Rigby, her mother, and sisters, from all of whom I have received the greatest kindness. Frank Palgrave*6 is truly a lucky fellow; and though I quite believe he deserves what he has got, it seems strange, to me,that so very young a man should hold the position of a Teacher of Teachers. My friend Mr. Hodgson*7, who is a profound scholar, and who is the most active promoter of all educational measures in India, professes himself as much, or even more puzzled than myself, and we both beg that you will have the kindness to explain and to enlighten us. I cannot recommend you an Indian gold chain, for use. They are slightly made and soft; moreover, the metal is so pure, that I could not procure a sufficiently strong and heavy one for the sum you mention. I refer, however, to the articles made in Benares and Nepaul; those from the Madras Presidency may be different; still, I have generally seen them kept as curiosities, or mere ornaments, by the ladies. Gold

is not much cheaper here than at home, and bullion has its recognised value almost everywhere; so, though the Indian metal is much less alloyed, it commands a higher price, and the workmanship, which is much cheaper, is worse executed. I will, however, bear in mind your commission. We (Mr. Hodgson and myself) arrived here, two days ago; he, but poorly, from having wetted his feet on the journey. The weather is dismal, and I am shivering over a fire, fog and rain forming a strong contrast to the hot, bright sunshine in the plains below! Mr. Taylor*8, the Postmaster General, has returned, and will stay two months with us. He is an extremely accomplished and gentlemanly person, small, smart, and welllooking, lively and good-natured, and pleased with everything; a scholar and a beautiful artist. Per contra, it must be admitted that he is not a little vain, that he is very gay and extravagant, over head and ears in debt with a salary of £4000 a year. I am again obliged to trouble Lord Dalhousie*9 about the Sikkim Rajah*10, who refuses to allow of my going to the east of Kinchin. As there are many rapid rivers to be crossed, and I must have relays of food, I cannot well venture without his permission. Though he cannot stop me, he may detain my coolies, and to remove the bridges is only the affair of ten minutes. Lord Dalhousie has, again, voluntarily proffered his best services, and I write to him on the subject

without hesitation. Meanwhile, Mr. Campbell*11 keeps back the rent money for Darjeeling, and I think Lord Dalhousie will sanction its forfeiture, but I shall regret, if the latter measure be adopted; it is impolitic, and looks like bad faith, for the debt is a just one, and the savage would probably become more intractable if the money be witheld [withheld]. I agree with Campbell, that the annexation of the Rajah's property at the foot of the hills were a more appropriate punishment. It was originally a gift from us, it is valuable land, which we could improve considerably, and we could always return it, on the settlement of our relations, after paying ourselves from its proceeds for the expense incurred by its seizure and temporary annexation. The Rajah, or his minister, has just insulted Mr. Campbell grossly. I lately purchased at a sale a silver bread-basket and some handsome glass things which I destined as a present to His Highness, but I shall give them to the convents instead. A report has reached Darjeeling, that the Rajah's eldest son, who is Heir-apparent and Head Lama, is dead. It is too well-known that the old man and his minister hated him. If it be true, that the young man is dead, there is no doubt he was put out of the way, by poison; but I incline to regard the whole as a ruse of the insolent minister, who is aware that the Heir-apparent and the Lamas are all friendly to us, and who has therefore raised this re-

port. It seems passing strange how the Rajah can be thus blind to his own interest; many a Governor General would depose him without more ado, and rule Sikkim for ourselves. Campbell is the soul of prudence and consideration, but desperately afraid of taking the initiative, lest Government should disapprove. The minister is a crafty, insolent scoundrel, who loses his power when the aged Rajah dies (always supposing that the present Heir-Apparent comes to the throne). Unluckily, my affairs are mixed up with these wretched politics, and I really cannot patiently wait their issue, but have entreated Campbell to separate them if possible. Accordingly, he despatched yesterday a third letter to the Rajah, giving him 10 days to make up his mind about my starting, and at the expiration of that period, the non-arrival of guides and of permission, to be construed into a refusal and be treated accordingly. Meanwhile, the season is a full month backward, and it is no use starting for another month, perhaps till the middle of May when, if I am not allowed to visit the sources of the Teesta, or the east shoulder of Kinchin, I will set off for Jongri, by the Lama convents, to which I am sending presents of gold-leaf, vermilion, and materials for writing and painting of all sorts. I have many other letters to send by this mail, and must break off. Best love to Bessy*12, Your most affectionate son, J. D. HOOKER.