CHOONGTAM CONVENTS, Sikkim*1, Himalaya. 12 days' march N.E. from Darjeeling*2. To Lady Hooker. May 24th, 1849. Dearest Mother, Your letter of the 19th March has just been forwarded to me from Darjeeling, and as I am sending messengers thither to--morrow, write by them. It is uncertain what post this may catch. I hope the Marseilles June lst. Here I have been camped 5 days, in want of food for my people which I must receive from Darjeeling, ere I can proceed to the Snowy Passes. I have en-countered much difficulty and opposition to my progress from the rude behaviour of the Rajah; also because the country is so poor, that I could procure nothing on the road. I have plenty of provision for myself, but my poor followers, whose religion restricts them to few articles of diet have been for fine[?] days on half allowance, and they have eaten so many wild things that my medicine chest is in greater requisition, than I could desire. The Rajah sent me a Guide, the same excellent man who attended me before; but not till after I had spent 10 days in making my own way without assistance; and his Highness has allowed no

food to the Guide nor the Guide's Coolies (of whom there are 3). I quite expected that this man, Meepo*3, would be deputed to attend me, for his master is well aware that I should soon send any less well--conducted person about his business. I have received three insolent messages from the Rajah since starting and I took no notice of any but the last, which was to the effect that I must "return at once to Darjeeling, for that I had had plenty of time to visit the Passes and get back again." To which I replied that as he expects me to feed his servants, as well as my own, I am delayed for lack of the extra provisions; that I shall not return to Darjeeling till I have visited both Passes, and shall then go back at my leisure, and wait here near the Snow so long as I please, and that if he thinks to bully me be-cause I am so far from Darjeeling he will find himself mistaken; for that I will receive none of his orders except through Dr. Campbell*4, who is, as he well knows, the only proper organ of communication. I have also reminded him that I am recommended to his hospitality as an Englishman and a guest by the Govr. General of India, and that I look to be treated accordingly. I fully expect to be left in peace for the future, for Meepo has informed the Rajah that I am in a towering passion and has cau-tioned him that evil may thence arise to himself at the hands of Lord Dalhousie*5. The least concession is construed by these people as a proof of weakness so I am compelled to hold firmly

by my own. I anticipated all these annoyances and they cost me no uneasiness. So long as Campbell keeps my people supplied with food, according to his promise, the Rajah cannot drive me out; and all the men behave admirably, not one having murmured at the short commons of the past week. I have plenty to eat myself, eggs, fowls and milk I can generally obtain from the villagers; but the 2 lbs of rice, the daily allowance to each of my 40 followers, is not to be picked up here by purchase, and must be regularly supplied. The Rajah hopes, by throwing his Guide and party upon my resources, that he shall starve me into going away, and he has also followed up this scheme by sending a foolish old official to frighten my people; but the poor man cannot bear any degree of ridicule, and between laughing at his menaces and treating him with all kindness, I have fairly won his heart. I have been very sorry to lessen the allowance of my servants, but it could not be helped. The Rajah wanted to get me out of Sikkim before he should go to his summer quarters, but I have just heard that finding me impracticable, he has departed in great perturbation and left the coast clear for me. I pay most liberally for everything I get; I give large presents to the Authorities and to the Convents; every day I heal the sick who come to me for advice and medicine; and nobody has received even a hard word from me, except in reply to the insolence of the Rajah, who ought to be ashamed of his inhospitality.

Tell my father that I am gathering lots of new plants and such Rhododendrons*6 "as Papa can't think." Three of them (I have sent home the leaves) bear white flowers, as splendid as those of R.Dalhousie* 7 and as the shrubs themselves grow to a great size and are loaded with blossoms, they produce a much grander effect than the twiggy and straggling R.Dalhousia. One of these new species is beyond all comparison, the glory of the Genus. Its flowers measure 5 1/2 inches (just half a foot) across the mouth; and it has a great red disciform calyx. My draw-ing of the head of flowers, with its leaves, is of the full size, but in no degree exaggerated; as the specimens will show it nearly occupies the whole sheet of paper, which is 22 inches by 17. Roots of it are sent to Darjeeling. I have nearly finished drawings of five new Rhododendrons and have just found another, previously unknown species, quite distinct from any of the rest: it bears solitary axillary purple flowers resembling those of an Azalea*8. There are seven or eight kinds which I still want to find in flower, besides new ones "galore." Several splendid novel Orchideae*9, a noble Aristolochia*10, and really a heap of undescribed things have lately rewarded my labours, and vet I have hardly touched the Alpine vegetation! I reached it two days ago at 3-4000 feet above my camp, and presently gather-ed Androsace*11, Primulae*12 and 20 plants, which had never before fallen in my way - -all in two hours! The above grew in a wood

of Abies Brunoniana*13)a, which, except Longifolia*14, is the first and only Pine I have seen since leaving Darjeeling. I have still the almost unknown vegetation of 12--15,000 ft. to collect. My camp here is at an elevation of about 6,000 ft. above the sea, in a wild bushy gorge, the mountains rising abruptly to perpetual snow on all sides and quite inaccessible. Two valleys, that of Lachong*15 to the E.N.E. and Lachen*16 N.W., lead to Thibet*17, and as soon as ever the Rice*18 arrives I shall start, first for the Lachong Pass, up the valley of the same name, and afterwards for the other (Lachen).1 In the event, These order of Travel passes were continually taken in the other order for it was reported that in the height of the rains the Lachen valley w[oul]d become impassable. Each is distant several days' march; the roads are difficult but in no respect danger-ous. It is my intention to proceed to the top of both of the Passes, without crossing, which the Rajah has forbidden; and though I dispute his authority to give such a prohibition, I cannot act in defiance of it and cross the Passes in secret. Thibet [Tibet] is the Headquarters of the Sikkim people's Church, and, if through any act of mine the Passes were to be closed, I should inflict upon the natives what they would consider a serious injury- -namely, the shutting of their Church Door. It is most reluctantly I give up the intention of crossing, especially as the Rajah's own order and other circumstances convince me that I could do so if I chose, and that no--one has power to hinder me, for the first Chinese village is distant 2 days' marches on the other side of the Border. However, I have plenty to do *18

on this side, and if, by crossing, I should throw any effectual impediment in the way of my Sikkim investigations, I should be a great loser by it. I do my best to improve my time. Every morning I get up at sunrise and breakfast at 7 or 8. At 9, if the sun is clearly shining, I take observations to correct my Watch, for Latitude etc. I dine generally between 4 & 8 p.m., at the former hour if I have been working within doors, at 7 or 8 if I have been out during the day. These are my only meals. It is quite dark at 7, and I write till 10 or 11 p.m., when I go to bed. All day, except when on the march or collecting, I am occupied in drying or examining and making notes upon my plants, only getting up to observe the Barometer and Thermometers, Weather etc. These duties, with camp arrangements, orders to the coolies, my correspondence, the purchase of various matters, journalizing, and catching all the Insects that come in my way, keep me always hard at work. Thanks to the kindness of Hodgson*19 and Campbell, I am quite comfortable, dry and warm, indeed, of late, I have been rather too warm, for the valleys through which we marched were oppressively hot. I go dressed nearly as I did in Scotland*20, with the addition of an umbrella to keep off the sun as much as the rain; and I use a linen coat in the hot weather. I always wear long worsted stockings and my trousers tucked up to the knees, on account of the immense quantities, of Leeches*21, which

get all over one's person, and of which I have sometimes taken off a hundred in a day, and they work quite through the clothes! I always carry a large bottle of snuff for the Peasantry, and I find this powder so is infinitely distasteful to the above blood-suckers that I often dust myself with it from the knees down-wards (not my nose), thus preventing them from attacking me. The weather is tolerable, mingled sunshine and showers; I rarely escape a ducking during some part of the day. The scenery is truly grand. Unfortunately for my researches, the season is backward and much snow still lies on the hills, at 12,000 feet, which these sharp showers and bright sun will, I hope, quickly dissolve. I assure you that I am perfectly well and very happy, and am grown so used to being alone that after the first week, I hardly miss Society (though I must own to feel-ing very dull then). On this last occasion, I travelled for several days, after setting out, over the ground, where I had previously had Campbell's company, and the difference was peculiarly trying. He is as amiable a man as ever lived , subject to such unaccountable fits of abstracton and forget-fulness, that I cannot wonder at the impression, which I first entertained of his character. A similar instance in proof of my remark has just occurred. Fifteen days have elapsed and the rice, which he was to have forwarded weekly from Darjeeling, is not arrived! I cannot imagine the reason for this neglect.