Silchar (Cachar District) E[ast] Bengal
Nov. 26 / [18]50
Dear [Charles Robert] Darwin
I am now & have been for some time a letter in your debt but feel so near home at last that my correspondence naturally slackens.
Master Falconer *1 is at his tricks again with my letters, & has not forwarded me one for this 6 mails, so that I am all adrift about home & love & all that sort of thing.
What an incomprehensible fellow F[alconer] is in this failings & how charming in every other point -- after leaving Calcutta [Kolkata] last april-- every thing went as regular as clockwork for 3 months, & since then he neither answers one of my letters, nor forwards me my English, though I reiterate my address weekly, & send him seeds plants & roots galore. -- My dying effort is to tell him my Father has sent, me no new remittance; or if so, he (F[alconer]) has he has the letter & money & I am starving, whether this will bring him to his sense or no I can't tell; I have exhausted all argument & persuasion to no avail.

I should not quite say he sends me nothing -- for to day arrived an English Parcel with some rubbishy proofs of Victoria Regia from Mr Reeves , which I don't care one rush about & have given away forthwith:-- no letter from Falconer with it, nor one of my overlands *2 of 3 months. Colvile *3 tells me has (F[alconer]) has both letters & parcels & is sending them -- but that was weeks ago --.
I left the curious Khassya [Khasi] Mts a fortnight ago & am on my way to the frontier Mts of Munnipore, for a few days, when I drop down the Soormah via Sylhet to the Megna & so to the sea & Chittagong --There I shall spend a few weeks botanizing, going down the coast if I can to Arracan & the mud volcanoes of the Arkyab, & thence across to Calcutta & so home after a month in Ceylon [Sri Lanka] before the middle year.
This route will enable me to connect the Flora of the Himalayah, with the Khassya (Garrow & Jyntea) hills, that with the AEng[?] range which runs from E[ast] Cachar South to Cape Negrais -- I shall also have seen the vegetation of the

dry Mts & plains of Behar, of the Morung Forests & Terai at the foot of the Himal. of the Jheels & fresh water deltas of the Ganges & Megna, of the sea--coast & of the salt marshes & Sooderbunds. I hope that having seen these in connection will be an advantage, & now I turn about & feel myself fully alive to the advantages I have enjoyed & half as much as to my shortcomings -- the said half being overwhelming I shall think no more.
In Geology I fear my results are but poor, indeed the grander features of the science to which my eyes are but opening are sufficiently conclusive against my being able to grasp any thing but details. In this country of enormous plains & no less conspicuous mountains the magnitude of the causes favours too much speculation. Denudation is at present my bug-bear -- it is impossible to deny the evidence of its having controlled every feature from the greatest elevation downwards, & where to draw the line between it's action, & that of upheaval, appears very difficult. : The loftiest summits appear to have lost miles of matter in thickness, & the thickest series to have been once thicker.
I have been puzzling over what you say of double Mt chains, & of the posterior elevation of,

that intersected by the water--courses, whether the most lofty or no. I can quite fancy its being as you say & can suppose good reasons for it--but I have never seen a double mt. chain. There is however a difficulty in defining a "Mt: chain" & I can understand such a feature as a different thing from a "chain of Mts." without any play upon words. Geological upheaval or depression may produce a chain of Mts.--the action of water may too, but sequence of geological composition will not entitle an elevated area to the term in all cases, & if waters may flow through Mt chains it would appear as if physical geography & geology were at cross purposes. I suppose that the axis of a Mt chain is always the line from either side of wh[ich]. the waters flow in opposite directions, such a line is never straight, always zigzag, the waters flow from the reentrant angles but the most elevated Peaks may or may not head them-- in the Himalaya the elevated Peaks are on the spurs from the main axis & not on the line of mean greatest elevation I shall try to illustrate my difficulty by a sketch-- Let A.B be the axis, cc. are the [a labelled sketch of rivers appears here] rivers given off from the reentrant angles e,e, are spurs from the same main axis-- Let ooo. represent Peaks on the spurs e, reaching a much greater

elevation than any part of the zigzag line AB -- would you then call the an imaginary line through o1 o2 o3 the axis of the chain -- Geologically you cannot fix this in the Himal. for o1. may be a granite cap protruding. from o2. a granite nucleus covered with Gniess & o3. these rocks with Limestone over all.-- The first o1 may be highest, though geologically the lowest, & denudation may have removed the superior strata from o1 & o2

I am further impressed with the idea that the said meridional spurs are the crests of great geological waves of gneiss from the prevalence of a strike at an oblique angle with the meridian throughout all we know of the Himal. It is quite a fallacy to suppose that after passing the Snows, (the Ghats, & Passes as they are called) you begin to descend & still greater that you come on a plateau, (table--land, or most fallacious of all a plain) of Thibet. Comparatively level spots occur it is true & of considerable area but they are few & far between, the great roads of course lead to & over them, & the mass of the country between the Snows & Tsampu river is a chaos of Mts rugged & uninhabitable, separated by flat floored valleys along which the rivers wind.
The decomposition of the more recent rocks which only appear behind the snows, where the mean greatest mass is, (ie that which may have been removed by denudation from the isolated Peaks & meridional spurs of equal or greater elevation), produces a flatter surface in many places & over considerable area, but the Mts behind when are of slate & primitive rocks Gneiss &c are as rugged & impracticable as what we call the Himal, & when of Limestone no less so. It is not a little curious that the greatest display of tertiary formations in these regions should be where the land attains its greatest elevation in mass, & that there the surface should be most even, as on the plains N[orth]. of Phari crossed by Turner, the Cholamo district I visited, that of Tingri (N[orth] of Nepal) the

Mansarovar where Strachey was & a few others; & that there the rivers flow more tranquilly, but leaving there, the rivers flow in Mt gorges in Thibet as well as in the Himal., as the Indus, Sutledge or other rivers in the N[orth].W[est]. & the Arun &c in the more central districts.
In one other point they all agree;--from the bend of the Indus to that of the Dihong (which I believe to be the Burrampooter [Brahmaputra]),--a total disregard of the snowy Himal: which they all cut through & take tribute from as they pass.-- Now I do not know whether you could demonstrate the line of loftiest peaks to be geologically a chain parallel to the axis, & ergo the Himal to be double: it seems to me opposed to the principles of pure geography to do so, that though there my principles are very shaky & perhaps pure humbug.
It is very captivating to run chains of Mts from Canton to the Caspian & Caucasus, but I cannot help thinking that there is no such real geographical line of Mts, just & that the said line indicates no geological connexion between the said places. I can fancy Asia divided by a line dividing the waters that flow to the Pole from what do to the tropic, or better by what flow east from what flow west, but & I should doubt the Himal being the a part of the axis of Asia (isolated as it is by 2 such rivers as the Indus & Burrampooter,) for the same reasons as I think are opposed to the idea that the line of snows represents the axis of the Himal[.]
I was so glad to see your name at the Brit[ish]: Assoc[iatio]n again & that the Barnacles are feathering[?]--these things bring hosts of associations with them. you are well

enough for that any how & that is a comfort for me to know[.]
The Khassya & Jyntea Botany was so engrossing & rich that I had little time for any but rock geology, & have sections of the Mts but I fear very poor-- I could not get one day to search for Mc Lellands fossil beach nor a soul who knew where to dig.-- I found erect, or rather perpendicular, roots evident in the under clay of the coal, but no fossils to speak of -- The Khassya are a charming miniature Himal. & just fancy my seeing a Snowy Mt in Thibet from 210 miles off! the same I saw when in Thibet last October 12 month. From one spot on the Khassya I believe the limits of my view N[orth] W[est]. & S[outh].E[ast]. spanned 400 miles Imagine[?] seeing from Dover to Arthurs Seat!--
I shall not forget the Barnacles at Chittagong.-- How little we know of Bot[anical] geography -- Thomson & I have 22 species of Oak, all from below 5000 ft some from that of 60 (sixty) on the plains at the foot of the hills. Birch, Rhododendron, Camellia, Willow Horse chestnut & eatable do. Pines & I dont know what all that I considered types of a temperate climate from a blazing Indian tropic 1--2000 ft. Palms & Tree--ferns from 6--7000 ft[.] Was I not right in saying that before the geologist had any right to legislate for climates to suit the scraps of fossils called plants? some one should examine such regions as these. How I laugh now to think that of the few data I would have allowed Geologists 3 years ago, that of calling Acorns evidences of a temperate climate would have been the most graciously conceded. Yet here are several species bordering these vast swamps actually only 60 ft above the sea with so many Tigers Rhinocerosses wild Elephants Alligators &c about that all will be fossilized together with Palms Tree--ferns Camellia leaves & I do not know what all. By the way the Bactrian camel is abundant in Thibet & is used to the most rigorous weather & elevations. Tame elephants are kept at Shigatzi & Lhassa for show, these were taken from Bengal across passes of 16000 ft they are well clothed & fed -- Shigatzi is a most rigorous climate & elevation of perhaps 14000 ft.
I had a tremendous yarn for you but cannot go on now about the boulders of the Khassya, as wonderful as are ice transported & of vast dimensions, piled like glacial phenomena, but I am positive they are the result of denuadation, & not glacial at all *4
I hope to see you before you can have time to answer this even were it worth an answer, -- best remembrances to Mrs Darwin & the children -- & to all old friends especially to Lyell. Affect[ionatel]y yours Jos D. Hooker [signature] *5