DARJEELING.
October 13th, 1848.
My dearest Mother,
I had hoped ere now to have been on my way to the Snowy Passes, but various difficulties, as might have been anticipated, have arisen; besides the rains are not yet over. The Sikkim Rajah's answer arrived 5 days ago, in the shape of a rude and peremptory refusal to permit of my crossing the Frontier. His highness asserts that "Kinchin Gunga[Kanchenjunga] is a Holy Mountain, never visited by anyone," a direct falsehood, because the village to which I want to go is built on the face of the mountain; also that in any case, "the Lhassa authorities must be consulted" who have no more to do with it than you or I have. Meanwhile, lest I should attempt to force my way, the Rajah has given orders for the apprehension of my followers (though no hands are to be laid on myself), and Guards have been placed at each River Pass between Darjeeling and Sikkim; and every obstacle is duly organised. I am happy to say that Mr. Campbell*1 behaved excellently well; he refused to admit to his presence the Messengers who brought this hostile reply (the greatest disgrace he could inflict); he threatened to write instantly to the

Governor General, to stop the Lease Money of Darjeeling, to cause the Rajah's property lying at the foot of the Hills (his most valuable possession) to be forthwith annexed to the British Dominions, and to arrest all intercourse with Sikkim through Darjeeling. The Head Vakeel (messenger) begged and implored Campbell to wait awhile, and not to send him back "unheard and with his face blackened," faithfully promising, if 7, or 8 days were allowed, that he would return, with a very different reply from the Rajah, and pleading that the latter had been informed I was entering Sikkim at the head of an armed power, determined to force my way! Meanwhile, Campbell, having heard of the Guards placed at the outlets of the Frontier, sent to the Rajah's representative here, saying that if they were not instantly withdrawn, he, the Pseudo-Minister, should also be packed out of Darjeeling, and despatched to his master with a blackened face. I forgot if I told you that we also applied to the Political President at Nepaul[Nepal], Major Thoresby, to ask permission from the Rajah of that vast country to pass from the Snows of Sikkim to those of Nepaul[Nepal]. The reply from the Rajah of Nepaul[Nepal] came the day after the former row: he grants full leave and promises a Guard of soldiers to meet me on my entrance into Nepaul[Nepal] from Sikkim, and to conduct me to the Passes of Thibet[Tibet]. If the Sikkim Ruler continues obstinate, I shall request this Nepalese Guard to join me due west East of this place, on Tonglo[Tonglu}, and to lead

me North to the Passes in Nepaul[Nepal] the whole way, instead of meeting me due N.E. from hence, at the foot of Kinchin Gunga[Kanchenjunga]. So far as Science is concerned, I care little by what route I reach the snow; no one has visited it East of Kumaoon[Kumaon], the permission of the Nepalese Government having been hitherto positively refused. The Pass I have selected lies of course West of Kinchin, and is uninhabited for 2 Marches on the Thibet[Tibet] side, The soldiers are ordered to accompany me thither; but whether I can induce them to allow me to enter it and go through to the Thibet[Tibet] plain, is doubtful. The Guard will be but small: still, even one man backed by Nepalese authority, will sufficiently ensure my perfect safety, so absolute is that Government, and so well conducted are the people. I shall, of course, make friends and keep on the best terms with the Corporal, or whatever rank the officer may hold. (Havildar is the name - perhaps a Corporal and his guard is the thing) Campbell has transmitted all this intelligence to the Sikkim Rajah, telling him that when I am thus respectfully treated by the Nepalese Government (an independent power, and by far the most influential on the Frontier), how much more does it behove him, our protected Ally, to extend to me, not permission merely, but all possible aid and escort! As I have repeatedly stated, the Rajah is an imbecile, a coward and a bully, who even refuses what it were his interest to grant, rather than be supposed to give in. The

Vakeels are thoroughly scared, and if their master does not succumb, I am fully persuaded that Lord Dalhousie*2 will execute all that Campbell has threatened. In the mean time I have 30 men, ready to start, carrying 20 days' provision for each. Campbell has arranged all this for me; and Hodgson has generously insisted on furnishing me with food etc. from his stores. I take 12 cases (2 lbs. each) of preserved meat, 2 of arrowroot, 2 of Tapioca, one of Pearl Barley, 4 Bottles of Brandy, Biscuits, dry Toast, lots of Rice, 4 lbs. of Tea, Sugar, Potatoes, 2 pieces of Salt Beef, and other articles to correspond. I also carry 2 small Blanket Tents, and as much warm clothing as may be needful, 2 Barometers (my Boiling Point etc. have not yet arrived, alas! from Calcutta[Kolkata]), an artificial Horizon, Pocket Sextant, and Azimuth compass (lent to me by Capt. Thuillier of the Trigonometrical Survey), sundry Thermometers, and 6 men's loads of paper, a Lamp, Candles, Telescope, a few jars of spirits, for depositing Insects and rarities in. I shall be alone, which I regret. Campbell's leg is very bad, from the kick of which I told my Father in my last letter; besides which Lord Dalhousie has ordered him not to go, lest his presence as an official personage, should give a political aspect to the Expedition, and has desired that "Dr. Hooker should act on his own responsibility alone." Lord Dalhousie is quite right, though I am sorry for it. Hodgson is too unwell to endure fatigue; Barnes'*3 leg puts his

travelling out of the question; and Müller's*4 Liver complaint equally hinders him. Everybody is solicitous to go with me; but I have refused all others, because I do not know them well enough to trust them; and having to bear all the onus myself, I should think it imprudent to risk taking any companion who might not be good-humoured and kind to the Natives, or willing to put up with insolence from the Rajah's people, should we chance to meet with them. Lord Dalhousie places great confidence in me, and the Rajah of Nepaul[Nepal] no less by granting me the first permission that any Englishman has ever received. Under all these circumstances, I shall do nothing in the peremptory way; for if anything disagreeable arose, I should be involving Lord Dalhousie in the necessity of vindicating me and avenging my wrongs, with fifty other troubles from which I should reap no advantage. I shall not therefore enter Sikkim, unless the Rajah consents. He has already committed himself; and my interference would do no good but harm. Now, my dear Mother, I tell you all this to convince you that I incur no danger, but on the contrary shall have all possible assistance and very valuable support. The Expedition will necessarily be fatiguing, but without the least peril. The roads, though hitherto closed to Europeans, are daily traversed by native Merchants, to and from Thibet[Tibet], Sikkim and Nepaul[Nepal], and no one ever hears of robbery on the way; for the Nepalese is too absolute and energetic a Government and the

Sikkim people too civil and peaceable a race (even under the sway of such a Rajah as I have described) for any outrages to be perpetrated. Major Thoresby*5 sent in his own name a kind invitation to me to visit the valley of Nepaul[Nepal] and Cattmandu[Kathmandu]; I do not however care to go there, unless I am allowed to proceed further; and hitherto the Nepalese Government has forbidden Europeans to quit that valley, or to visit any other part of the Kingdom. Wallich*6 has explored that district too well to leave much novelty for me. Even his Alpine collections, formed by the Natives whom he sent to the Snowy Passes, are so extensive and so complete as to render a visit to Gossam in-Than[Gosainkund] hardly worth my undertaking, if any other Snows are accessible. I have answered Major Thoresby, with heartfelt gratitude, that if he can point out and get me permission to pursue a route, by which I may travel from Sikkim through the Himalaya to the Valley of Nepaul[Nepal], I will think of his kind invitation next season, or if he can facilitate my proceeding from Cattmandu[Kathmandu] N.W. to the Passes at the base of Dawalgiri[Dhaulagiri] (long reputed the highest mountain in our Globe), either such trip would be the finest ever made in the Himalaya. I have been rather uneasy about Gurney's*7 health and am this morning relieved by a satisfactory letter from him. He speaks cheerfully of his prospects too, and will tell my dear grandmother of Lord Dalhousie's renewed instance of kindness

to him, and the condescending manner his Lordship has used. A prettier proof of real sympathy and good feeling never was shown, and poor Gurney feels it very deeply. "May God bless his Lordship for this kindness," he says, "my dear mother will bless him too." I wrote urgently about Pooree[Puri?], and have no doubt Gurney will get it. Glad I shall be, when he quits Calcutta[Kolkata], which has never agreed with him, and which has been eminently unhealthy during the past season. However, the bad weather is nearly over; and every day now brings an improvement. Here, in this dear delightful double-distilled Greenock fog, we know not what a headache is. I think, however, this climate might not suit Gurney; for though it is admirably adapted for sound constitutions and agrees with persons suffering from 99 diseases out of 100, it is liable to occasion bowel-complaint, to which Gurney is already subject, and to increase chronic Liver-complaint, like Hodgson's*8 and Müller's. I have been working very hard and just completed my Tonglo[Tonglu] Journal for papa. It contains an account of Darjeeling, Buddhism, Agriculture, and plenty of miscellaneous matter, an olla podrida in fact - a little of everything and nothing good. He had asked me to intersperse other matter among the Botany in the papers intended for the Journal, and he will see I have done my best to satisfy him; but I am mistaken if this be not a stifler! He knows, however, that he is free to burn, sink

and destroy any or all of it. Hodgson has kindly looked it through and pronounced it correct. I have told no one that my father thinks of printing it, because he may (wisely) change his mind; and I do request him, if he does publish it, to take the responsibility on himself, and to say that I did not write for the Press. As to this letter, I would ask you not to show or say much about it; simply because it holds out high hopes of my success in gaining the Snowy Passes, which many circumstances may defeat. If I am rewarded, parts of this letter may be prefixed to the account of my expedition; if otherwise, it is best suppressed. Any notoriety given to unsuccessful applications to these contemptible Potentates would be derogatory to our Government (to whose mistakes our present pitiful position is due), that the Rajah of Sikkim, our own protected ally, who prossfesses[possesses] neither wealth, power nor authority, should rudely refuse the request of the Governor General of all India, is monstrous in the eyes of those who know nothing of Indian misrule. I am sending seeds to Calcutta[Kolkata] for transmission to England, 100 and odd species: most of the fine Rubi of Darjeeling are among them. The seed season is hardly arrived, and you may tell my father I shall not leave this place till I have made a good collection. I have marked the several stations upon the Packets. "Alpine" explains itself, "Darjeeling" or "6 - 8000 feet"

requires a damp cool temperature, bottom heat of 50o - 60o, and a summer temperature of 66°, never above 70°. "Terani" or "low hot valleys" implies stove culture. I am also forwarding a lot of things for the Museum - sheaves of Grains and Rice, about 30 kinds, well camphored; and a set of drawings of 150 Fungi to go overland in a Tin case. I contemplate sending the specimens of fungi overland too, i.e. the pressed ones. I have 60 or 80 species not pressed. All are carefully numbered, with brief descriptions. My other collections are become so bulky that I am aghast when I look at them! Enclosed are seeds of a most lovely climbing yellowflowered Dielytra (Fumaria), which grows very abundantly about Darjeeling. My other collector has arrived at Bhaugulpore[Bhagalpur] on his way hither, bringing paper, instruments and books from Falconer*9, who has been ill again with fever, but is better now. Major Mapleton at Bhaugulpore[Bhagalpur] has taken much kind trouble in forwarding my things, sending on the collector, and getting boats etc. I despatched to the Calcutta[Kolkata] Gardens the other day 15 Baskets of roots of 180 species of plants, some of which will, I hope, arrive in good condition for speedy transmission to England, but all is doubtful, depending on the weather in the plains, where the rains have been fearfully heavy. The last

Marseilles Mail brought me no letter from you. On referring to my memorandums I find a receipt for the paid letter delivered to the Ghazeepore[Ghazipur] Post Office, which you tell me has never been received: so I suppose it passed on from thence, or perhaps they burked the letter, and kept the money. I understand the East India Company are curious about me. and that they took for granted I want to press myself into their Service through Lord Dalhousie's influence. I need not tell you that I never did expect a shilling from the Company, nor do I. And the suspicion is very shabby, when attached to a person who has come forward so openly as I have, and who is backed as I am, whose previous career and future prospects are no secret. and concerning whose claims and motives they could so easily obtain every information they may desire. A more inhospitable proceeding than theirs, when they refused a passage in one of their men-of-war to an officer of the Royal Navy, never was perpetrated on the high seas. Has Sir Henry Willock*10 ever hinted at the subject? or Mr. Melvill*11? The latter behaved in a most gentlemanly manner, when I carried him my uncle Palgrave's letter; and so indeed has Sir Henry Willock. From what I can gather, it is Mr. Sykes, the Director, who has written to Mr. Hodgson about me, though the latter did not exactly tell me so. and I do not trouble my head much about the matter. I will thank you to tell me the writers of any of the

articles in the Edinburgh or Quarterly Reviews; this is always an interesting subject in India. I hope dear Bessy*12 attends to my birdskins and puts camphor to them from time to time. There is a vast force now gathering in the North-West, where we have been making as great a mess as usual. The whole country is in arms; and I hope Lord Dalhousie will strike the blow promptly and sufficiently, and that he will procure that all the territory of the Punjaub[Punjab] be attached to our dominions: for we never can trust the people, and it would pay very well. General Whish*13 is said to have been lacking in energy. He has retired from Moultan[Multan], and the report is that, had he continued operations but 2 days longer, Moulrag*14[Mulraj] must have given in! Meanwhile the latter is reinforced, part of General Whish's troops have gone over; and all the Punjaub[Punjab] is buzzing, like a hive of angry bees. Nothing now but an Army of overwhelming strength can quiet the sedition. It will cost the impoverished Treasury a mint of money. I am truly sorry for Lord Dalhousie, whose heart was set on a Peace Governorship. Fight now he must! I only fear he may catch, like others before him, the Scarlet Fever when he finds how fine a thing it is to have an Army to play with; how rich are the rewards, and how glorious the fame. If he resist the attraction, he is more than mortal! You. my dearest mother, would be truly distressed to witness the sensation which the news of War has created here. Officers holding

snug civil appointments are ordered away from their wives and children at a moment's warning, to join their regiments; others on sick leave, equally hurried off, and the rest daily expecting the summons to move. Many are already deep in debt, from the failure of the Union Bank and other speculations, a sad aggravation of their troubles. I am glad to tell you that Hodgson is a good deal better, than when I wrote last. Best love to my Father and Bessy. | Ever your most affectionate son. | JOSEPH D. HOOKER.